Gold Sheen Sapphire and Ruby in Mens Jewelry

Gold sheen sapphire and dark, vivid ruby is ideal for men’s jewelry.

Typical design styles for men’s jewelry use flat mountings with large(er) size gemstones.  This requires a faceted gem with a larger table size, or flatter cabochon that presents well, which favors opaque over transparent stones.

For example, this gold sheen sapphire ring has a 45ct stone with a 22mm x 16mm table. The faceting picks up brass, copper and gold tones as light plays across the surface.

45ct Gold Sheen Sapphire Men's Ring
45ct Gold Sheen Sapphire Men’s Ring

The rubies in these rings are cabbed from the same piece of rough ruby. In larger sizes, the dark tone with strong saturation is great for men’s rings, yet still beautifully feminine in smaller sizes.

20ct and 10ct Mens and Womens Ruby Cabochon Rings
20ct and 10ct Men’s and Women’s Ruby Cabochon Rings

What is a Ruby?

What are the criteria that gemological institutes follow to determine if a sapphire is a ruby? Can there be pink rubies?

The process to determine a ruby is straightforward:

  1. Is it corundum? If no, not ruby, if yes then:
  2. Is it red? If yes, then ruby, if no then it is sapphire

There is no pink ruby, pink corundum is called pink sapphire. Any colour of sapphire that is not blue is generally known as fancy sapphire.

However, what is ‘red’ and when does light red become pink? Is reddish orange still red, etc is a matter of individual opinion. Both hue and tone have to be taken into account.

This is a colour hue chat:

GIA Hue Chart
Hue Chart used in GIA Color Gemstone Grading

As you can see, there is no ‘pink’. Pink is a lighter tone of red.

This is a tone chart:

Gemstone Tone Chart
Gemstone Grading Tone Chart

To make it confusing, tone is often referred to as saturation. While this chart says ‘saturation’, what it is really showing is tone:

Not a tone chart
Chart uses ‘saturation’ where it means ‘tone’

So when grading a stone as ruby rather than pink or fancy sapphire, it needs to be ‘red’ with medium or better tone. Subjectively, one grade difference is acceptable – what I might call ‘red’, you might call ‘slightly purplish red’, or what I might call ‘medium’ tone, you might call ‘medium light’, and that is ok.

But there is no absolute definition for ruby, some labs might class ruby as anything with red in it, others might say red only, or some might include orangish red and slight purplish red.

Just to be clear about ‘saturation’, the saturation scale as defined by the GIA goes from ‘brownish’ to ‘vivid’ for red gemstones. It should make no difference to the actual classification of whether a gem is ruby or not.

Confusing, right? Yes, at first. But once you get your ‘eye in’ for ruby, you can pretty much tell at a glance. A definition I like to use is that if corundum can return a red ‘flash’ (a property of ruby is it returns more red light than it receives), then it deserves to be called ruby.

This is a sample of ruby colour variation:

Ruby color variation
Ruby color variation

 

The best possible colour of ruby is called ‘pigeon blood’, but that is a whole other story.

UMB Shenzhen Show

We took Gold Sheen Sapphire to the China International Gold, Jewellery & Gem Fair at Shenzhen in April.  This was the first time Gold Sheen Sapphire had been shown in the PRC.

SJW Gems booth at Shenzhen Jewelry Show
SJW Gems booth at Shenzhen Jewelry Show
Presentation from Professor Wang Hui Shu
Presentation from Professor Wang Hui Shu
Gold Sheen Sapphire DIsplay
Gold Sheen Sapphire DIsplay

David Yurman Feature Gold Sheen Sapphire in 2017 Lunar New Year Collection

Top ranked jewelry designer David Yurman today released their 2017 Lunar New Year Collection featuring Gold Sheen Sapphire.

“The Men’s DY Fortune collection includes designs crafted with octagonal cut stones – a reference to the lucky number 8. Evoke good karma with these extraordinary pieces.”

– David Yurman announcement newsletter

 

As for the octagonal cut, the raised facets presented quite a challenge for the cutting factory. Making that design in garnet is one thing, but quite a lot harder when cutting sapphire. Nevertheless, the skilled artisans rose to the challenge and filled the order ahead of time while achieving a remarkable consistency of 0.1mm tolerance.

I am very proud to have been able to meet the high quality demanded by David Yurman – which required a concerted team effort over three months. It simply would not have been possible without the dedication of Tanzim Khan and his exceptional team.

Amulet with Golden Sheen Sapphire
DY Fortune Faceted Amulet with Golden Sheen Sapphire in 18K Gold

 

The designs on the DY website are:

DY Fortune Faceted Amulet with Golden Sheen Sapphire in 18K Gold

DY Fortune Woven Station Bracelet with Golden Sheen Sapphire and 18K Gold, 11mm

 

If you would like more information on amazing Gold Sheen Sapphire, please see the information pages on my website – https://sjwgems.com/gold-sheen-sapphire/

If you are a jewelry designer and would like to make a trade enquiry, please contact me directly – steve@sjwgems.com

For other beautiful Gold Sheen Sapphire jewelry and rare and unique collectors pieces, look here – https://sjwgems.com/product-category/gemstones/gold-sheen-sapphire/

 

 

Ruby Catalog

I have been working on cataloging and publishing a catalog for ruby cabs from the parcel of rough ruby we bought earlier in the year. I was thinking about using a simplified grading system that groups colour/finish/proportions into one metric called ‘appeal’, but it soon became apparent that it would not be workable.  Instead I have used the GIA grading method.  After consideration, it can’t really be simplified or improved on in any helpful way.  And no need to reinvent the wheel.

It took a couple of days to develop the framework for the spreadsheet, going through several iterations before I was happy with it.  The version I am running with will auto-generate a long form description from the grading information.  I can then just cut and paste that into the description field of the product on the website.  I was quite proud of that little bit of spreadsheet scripting, until someone expressed disappointment that it didn’t just automatically post to the website instead of having to manually cut an paste.  Alas, the skills for that type of coding left me long ago.  Nevertheless, I am pleased with the functionality of my catalog spreadsheet as it is.

Given a base price for the ruby, the spreadsheet will also generate a price. That part still needs a little bit of work, but basically it works on giving a high value to the ‘sweet spot’ of hue, tone and saturation, with modifiers for clarity, finish, proportion and treatment.  The base price I take from the average street/negotiated price I see in the market for unheated ruby cabs.

The end result looks like this:

Ruby Catalog Spreadsheet
Ruby Catalog Spreadsheet

Which gives me a price from $38 to $128 for the best colour/finish grade stones.  Market pricing for ruby cabs at the moment starts at $5 per carat for heat/glass filled, $20-$80 for heat treated and $50-$150 for natural/no heat.

The autogenerated description looks like this:

Autogenerated description from grading data
Autogenerated description from grading data

It will be easy enough to replace the commas with line breaks using a text editor if I want the formatting to look better on the product web page.

Now, I know what you are asking.  What about the rubies themselves?  They are much more interesting to look at that a spreadsheet, after all.  So here is a sample of some we have photographed so far:

 

 

 

 

The next task will be to take the spreadsheet and publish it as a catalog table on the website.  That should be straightforward, and I can include a thumbnail of each gem as well, which will link to the full size picture.  I expect to have that completed pretty soon.

In the meantime, if you would like more information on the any particular piece, or for rubies in general, just email me at steve@sjwgems.com.

 

Wikipedia Article for Gold Sheen Sapphire

I have just completed the draft of a wikipedia article for gold sheen sapphire.  You can see the draft here – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Draft:Golden_sheen_sapphire.

It’s been a long time since I tried to edit anything in Wikipedia, and it still remains a fairly esoteric publishing system.  But I have to say that the visual editor and upload wizards do make things quote a bit easier.

Here is one of the photos from the article:

Blue and gold gold sheen sapphire
Blue and gold gold sheen sapphire

Now just to wait while the Higher Powers of Wiki review the draft.  Hopefully it will not need too many revisions to get accepted in the article space.  I might just go sacrifice a chicken to appease the Wiki gods, just in case.

Gold Sheen Sapphire Article and Lab Report from GIT

The GIT (The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand) has just completed an excellent lab report on gold sheen sapphire.  They have also featured gold sheen sapphire in the latest GIT magazine.

Gold Sheen Sapphire feature article in GIT Magazine
Gold Sheen Sapphire feature article in GIT Magazine July-August 2016

From the lab report:

GIT Gold Sheen Sapphire report

Golden Sheen and Non-Sheen Sapphires from Kenya
Nalin Narudeesombat, Saengthip Saengbuangamlam, Thanapong Lhuaamporn and
Thanong Leelawatanasuk
The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (Public Organization), Bangkok, 10500, Thailand
Abstract
A new variety of sapphire from Kenya with unique golden sheen ± star phenomena, the so- called
“Gold Sheen” sapphire has been introduced to the gem market in the last 6-7 years. This study was aimed
at characterizing both the sheen sapphire and non-sheen sapphire from the same locality. It was found that
both sheen and non-sheen samples shared somewhat similar inclusion assemblages, namely magnetite,
goethite, hematite, short needles and zircon. The sheen stones, however, were apparently translucent to
opaque with golden sheen ± star effect caused by the reflection of the light from the combination of dense
and well-oriented reddish brown platelets and short needle-like inclusions exsolved along three
crystallographic directions in the basal pinacoid of sapphire. The transparent-to-semi-transparent nonsheen
stones, in contrast, contained relatively much less amounts of platelets and needles. The advanced
analyses revealed that both sheen and non-sheen sapphires contained high iron content, including boehmite,
diaspore and kaolinite which were good indications of untreated stones.

 

The full report is available here:  http://www.git.or.th/2014/eng/testing_center_en/lab_notes_en/glab_en/2016/11/D5-A0210.pdf